A cheesemonger is someone who sells cheese and really knows it. "Monger" is an old English word for a trader, like fishmonger or ironmonger, so a cheesemonger is simply the person you go to for cheese.

A good one does a lot more than ring you up. They choose what goes in the case, cut and wrap cheese to order, let you taste before you buy, and tell you what to pair it with. Some also age cheese themselves in the shop.

How to get the most out of one:

• Ask for a taste. It's expected, and it's free.
• Tell them what you already like, and what you're planning to do with the cheese (a board, a recipe, a gift).
• Give them a budget. A good cheesemonger will work with it.
• Ask what's best right now. It changes with the season.

Many shops have a "monger's choice" tasting, which is one of the best ways to try something new.

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