Greece makes far more than feta. The country has a long tradition of sheep’s and goat’s milk cheeses, from salty brined blocks to hard grating cheeses to fresh, mild ones made from whey. Here are eight to look for, with what each one is like and how it’s usually eaten.
Feta
The famous one: a brined cheese made from sheep’s milk, sometimes mixed with up to 30 percent goat’s milk. “Feta” is a protected name in the EU, so the real thing comes from specific parts of Greece. Salty, tangy and crumbly. I wrote more about it in my feta guide.
Graviera
A hard to semi-hard cheese with a mild, slightly sweet and nutty flavor, and a good all-rounder for the cheese board or the grater. Graviera Kritis (from Crete) is protected; Graviera Naxou, from the island of Naxos, is made with cow’s milk plus a little sheep’s or goat’s milk.
Kasseri
A semi-hard, pale yellow cheese made mostly from sheep’s milk, with up to 20 percent goat’s milk allowed. It is mild and slightly buttery and melts well, so it’s often used in sandwiches and for frying.
Kefalotyri
A hard, salty cheese from sheep’s or goat’s milk (or both), sharper than graviera. It is often grated over pasta and baked dishes, or fried in slices as saganaki.
Manouri
A soft, white, creamy cheese made from whey (often left over from feta) enriched with cream. It is milder and less salty than feta and holds its shape when grilled. Manouri is also a protected name.
Myzithra and anthotyro
Both are whey cheeses, in the same family as Italian ricotta. Fresh myzithra and anthotyro (the name means “flower cheese”) are soft, mild and a little sweet, and are used in pies and pastries. Myzithra is also sold aged and dried, when it turns hard, salty and grateable.
Xynotyro
A tangy, sour cheese from Crete (xyno means sour), made from sheep’s or goat’s milk. Look for it with a sharper, more acidic bite than the others on this list.
Wrapping up
If you’re new to Greek cheese, start with a block of feta, then try a graviera or kasseri to see how different the hard and semi-hard ones are. Which names are legally protected can change, and not every cheese above has the status, so check the label if it matters to you. For more reading, see this overview of Greek cheeses. Looking for a drink to go with them? Try What wine or whiskey goes with cheese?